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Replacing a Bathroom Faucet

Materials List
Pop-up drain assembly
Pipe joint compound
Teflon tape
Plumber's putty
Penetrating oil
Tools List (click item to shop)
Tongue & groove pliers
Basin wrench
Putty knife
Pipe wrench
Reciprocating saw
Safety glasses
Plumbing Basics
Faucet Basics

Moen Inc.
Extensa Model #87560C
Aberdeen Faucet
Wayne Water Systems
Sump Pumps
Well Pumps
Water Saver Tanks

IMPORTANT: Read this before you start


When replacing an old faucet there are generally three things to consider: how many holes your sink has, how far apart they are, and whether or not you will need to replace the drain.

Most bathroom sinks usually come with three different hole configurations. The most popular configuration is two holes four inches apart with a center hole between them (three holes total). Another similar configuration is two holes eight inches apart with a center hole between them (often called a spread set configuration). Finally, there might be just a single hole, which is a common configuration for newer sinks and faucets.

You will need to purchase a faucet that matches your particular hole pattern. It is not recommended that you try drilling holes in your sink or try to make a spread set fit a 4-inch configuration. One exception to this rule, however, can be made for some single hole faucets that are designed with a wide base that will cover the extra holes in a 4-inch configuration.

Usually it is a good idea to replace the drain when replacing the faucet. Typically bathroom faucets are sold with pop-up drains, but you can also get them with just a plug. If you do replace the drain, consider buying a new trap and tailpiece as well. It is much easier to work with new pipes than old and the cost is not prohibitive.

Skill Level & Time To Complete
• Beginner - 2 to 4 hours
• Intermediate - 2 to 3 hours
• Advanced - 1 to 3 hours

Make sure to wear safety glasses when working under the sink as bits of rust and metal can fall into your eyes as you are working.

Helpful Tips
Make sure you know where the main water shut-off is just in case.

Have a small pail ready to catch leaks.

If you can't get the old faucet or drain out, consider replacing the sink as well. This could be cheaper than calling a plumber, who might tell you to replace the sink anyways.

1. Turn off the water to the existing faucet at the shut-off valves. Then, relieve pressure in the faucet by turning the hot and cold valves on.
2. Remove the hot and cold supply tubes to the faucet. If you are replacing the drain with the new faucet, also remove the P-trap and the linkage to the pop-up drain.
3. Also, if you are replacing the drain, unscrew the nut holding the rubber gasket against the sink. Next, try to unscrew the drain flange from the T-connector. If this does not work (as it often does not) take a reciprocating saw (with a metal cutting blade) and cut the drain assembly in half just above the nut.
4. To remove the faucet, use your basin wrench to unscrew the nuts under the faucet. If necessary, use penetrating oil to get the nuts to turn. Make sure you are unscrewing them the right way as it is easy to get disoriented under the sink. When the faucet is out, scrape away any old plumbers putty or caulk with a putty knife.
5. Some new faucets come with gaskets that seal between them and the sink, while others require that you apply plumbers putty to make the seal. If yours is the latter, apply a generous amount of putty under the faucet so that it squeezes out as you put the faucet in place. Next, tighten the nuts under the faucet until the faucet is secure while also making sure that it is properly aligned.
6. Wrap all the inlet fittings with Teflon Tape to ensure a tight seal before connecting hookups. Wrap the tape in the same direction as you will attach the fittings.

To install the hookups, first attach them to the faucet with the help of the basin wrench and then to the shutoff valves using an adjustable wrench. Be careful not to twist them as you install them as this can restrict the water supply to the faucet and cause premature failure.
7. Assemble the new drain (if it does not come already assembled) by first applying pipe joint compound on the tailpiece and then screwing it into the T-connector. When finished, screw the nut all the way down on the T-connector followed by the plastic washer and rubber gasket. It is important that there is a washer between the nut and rubber gasket.
8. Put a heavy bead of plumbers putty around the drain flange and press it into the drain hole. Next, coat the threads on the drain body with pipe joint compound and from under the sink screw the drain body into the drain flange. Once the flange and body are together, tighten the nut on the body till the gasket is pressed tightly against the underside of the sink. Make sure that when tight, the branch on the T-connector is facing towards the back of the sink.
9. To install the pop-up linkage, first place the pop-up in the drain hole making sure that the slot in the bottom of the pop-up is facing the back of the sink. Next, install the pivot rod in T-connector so that the rod finds the slot in the pop-up. Once lined up, install the rods retaining nut snug so that the rod can still move but has no play.
10. Insert the lift rod into the faucet and from below attach the clevis to the rod. With the lift rod down and the pop-up in the open position, insert the pivot rod into the nearest hole on the clevis while also having the rod pass through the spring clip. If all is aligned correctly the pop up should close when the lift rod is pulled up and open when it is pushed down again. If not, make adjustments via the clevis screw.
11. Finally, unscrew the aerator from the spout, open the water shutoffs and turn the faucet on for several minutes. Check for leaks and then reinstall the aerator.



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