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OVERVIEW

 

Range hoods are a necessity in any kitchen. A properly installed range hood will vent hot air and cooking odors outside as well as help keep kitchen surfaces free of grease. The trickiest part of installing a range hood is determining how to run the ventilation ducts. Depending on the location of your range, you will need to decide if it is easier to vent through an outside wall versus up through the roof. Use this tutorial if you determine that venting through the roof is the best route. The tutorial, "Installing a Range Hood - Wall Vent," offers instruction for the other option.

Choosing the proper range hood is simple. The CFM rating for your hood (cubic feet per minute, or the amount of air that a fan is capable of moving in a minute) should be approximately equal to twice the square footage of your kitchen. For example, if your kitchen area is 150 square feet, the CFM of your hood should be 300.

The dimensions of the cabinet above your stove will most likely determine the width of your hood. However, if this is not a determining factor, try to get a hood that will extend approximately 3 inches beyond each side of your cook top and 6 inches beyond each side if your cook top is in an island.

 

 

Skill Level & Time to Complete

 
  • Beginner - 6 to 8 hours 
  • Intermediate - 5 to 7 hours
  • Advanced - 4 to 6 hours
  - Make sure you turn off the circuit you will be working on.
  - Use hand tools to cut preliminary holes in walls. It is very easy to cut through pipes and electrical lines with a reciprocating saw when you do not know what is on the other side of the wall.
  - Some smaller range hoods can be noisy. Consider buying a slightly oversized unit (one with a higher CFM rating) and run it at half speed. A large fan running slower is quieter that a small fan running faster, even though they might be moving the same amount of air.
  - Do some planning before you start this project. Make sure that your source for electric power can handle the requirements for your hood (most hoods will draw about 15 amps). You may need to have an electrician install a new circuit. Also make sure that there is nothing of any structural importance in the path of your vent to the outside. If you do not know for sure, try using a stud finder to find out.
  - If you find it too difficult to vent your hood to the outside consider a hood that filters and then returns the air to the kitchen. It is not the ideal solution but it is better that no hood at all.
  - The Roof Vented Range Hood is typically used in kitchens that are located in a single story home.



SHOPPING LIST


Materials List
   Range hood
   Metal ducting
   Duct flashing
   Vent cap (roof installations only)
   Duct tape
   Duct strap (plumbers tape)
   1" to 2" galvanized screws and/or screw anchors
   Caulk or roofing tar
   Wall cap or roof jack
   Electrical cable (NM)
   Cable clamps
   Wire nuts
 
Tools List
   Reciprocating saw
   Electric drill
   Drill bits
   Hammer
   Screwdriver
   Caulking gun
   Drywall saw
   Wire cutter/stripper
   Sheet metal shears
   Tape measure
   Work gloves
   Safety glasses

 

1. Remove the fan from your hood, as well as the filter, light housing, and electrical housing. Find the knockout that corresponds to the direction your electrical cable will come from and punch it out. Cover the duct hole that faces the wall so that the top duct hole will be open.
2. Hold the hood up where it will be mounted and outline the location for the knockout and duct with a pencil. You should also make a corresponding outline in the top of the cabinet.
3. Drill holes in each corner of your outline and then use a reciprocating saw to cut from hole to hole. Repeat the procedure for the hole in the top of the cabinet and for any drywall above the cabinet. Next, cut the hole for the electrical cable by using a drill bit the same size as the knockout outline and pull your cable through it.
4. Once you have made a path to the attic you will need to make a hole in the roof. From inside the attic choose a location not far from the hood and drill a hole from the underside of the roof out. Next, cut a hole corresponding to the size of your ducting using the first hole to start the cut. (Note: if you have a tile, metal, or flat roof this portion of your installation should be done by a professional roofer as special tools and techniques are needed to cut through and seal these roofs).
5. Back in the kitchen, install a cable clamp in the knockout hole on the hood. Next, with a helper, hold the hood in its final position. Feed the electrical cable through the clamp and then screw the hood in position below the cabinet.

 

6. The next step is to install your ducting. Assemble the ducting in place, making sure to tape the joints with duct tape to prevent air leaks. Strap the duct at each joint to something solid, such as a stud. Be careful that the damper in the hood moves freely and is not obstructed by a poor fit with the ducting. Also, it is a good idea to use an adapter at some point to switch from the square duct that comes out of most hoods to a round pipe that can be more easily routed through a roof.
7. To seal around the ducting that goes through the roof, position the duct flashing over the hole and slip part of the flange under the shingles that are above the hole. Make sure to put roofing tar under the flange of the flashing before you install it. Next, slip the last section of ducting through the flashing and attach it below. Be sure to seal around the joint between the flashing and the duct with roofing tar and put a vent cap on the top of the duct.
8. Reinstall the fan unit, light cover, and filter. Connect the black wires together, the white wires together, and the green or copper wires together or to a ground screw. Cover the wire connections with wire nuts, and then cover all the wiring with the electrical housing cover. Finally, turn the power back on and see how it all works.

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