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OVERVIEW

 

 

 

Skill Level & Time to Complete

 
  • Beginner - 60 - 90 minutes 
  • Intermediate - 60 minutes
  • Advanced - 30 minutes



SHOPPING LIST


Materials List
 
Tools List
   Drill/Driver and Bits
   Hole Saw
   Tape Measure
   Claw Hammer
   Wood Chisel
   Combination Square
   Safety Glasses
   Dust Mask

 

1. First, you need to decide between a surface-mount deadbolt, which is easier to install…and an internal deadbolt, which is a somewhat more difficult installation, but provides better security.
2. The deadbolt package will include a template. Tape the template into position to ensure that your deadbolt assembly doesn’t conflict with existing door hardware. Use a combination square to make sure the template is squarely placed on the door. You can position a surface-mount deadbolt wherever you wish, but internal deadbolt placement must be 6 to 12 inches above, or at least 6 inches below the lockset.
3. Mark the locations of the screw holes and the cylinder hole on the door. Drill pilot holes for the screws, and use a hole-saw to drill the hole for the lock cylinder. Stop drilling when the pilot bit comes through the door, then finish drilling from the other side. This should keep the face of the door from splintering. For steel door installation use a bi-metal hole-saw.
4. Internal Deadbolt Only
Installing an internal deadbolt is more involved. Use a spade bit to drill the hole in the edge of the door for the bolt. Some locks require that the bolt hole be extended into the far side of the cylinder hole, so check the instructions first. That’s where you’ll also find out bit sizes for the cylinder and bolt holes. Close the door and trace the inside of the bolt hole onto the doorjamb. You’ll use the traced line later.
5. Internal
Slide the latch bolt into the bolt hole and trace the outline of the latch plate onto the edge of the door. Remove the bolt and chisel a mortise for the latch plate. Fit the bolt and latch plate back in place. If the latch plate isn’t flush with the edge of the door, deepen or shim the mortise as needed. Screw the latch plate into place and set the bolt in the unlocked position.

 

6. Internal
Place the cylinder into the cylinder hole from the outside face of the door. All deadbolts are slightly different, so check the instructions for how to properly align the cylinder to the latch bolt. If the lock has a thumb latch, align it with the cylinder and secure it to the inside of the door. Check the bolt for proper operation.
7. Internal
Drill a hole for the bolt as marked in the doorjamb. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended diameter and depth of the hole. Place the strike plate over the hole and trace its outline on the doorjamb. Chisel a mortise for the strike plate and screw the plate to the jamb. If the deadbolt has a strike box, enlarge the bolt hole in the jamb to accommodate the strike box. Chisel out the mortise for the strike box and strike plate, and screw them to the jamb. And finally, test the lock for proper operation.
8. Surface Mount
If you’re installing a surface-mount deadbolt, the next step is to place the cylinder ring around the cylinder with the keyhole positioned at the bottom. Insert the cylinder and connecting bar into the cylinder hole from the outside. Set the bolt in the open position and attach the back plate to the inside of the door.
9. Surface Mount
Align the slot in the bolt case with the connecting bar and attach the bolt case to the inside of the door. If the connecting bar is too long, snap it off at one of its break points. Test the bolt from both sides of the door.
10. Surface Mount
Secure the strike in the bolt case. Close the door and trace the strike’s outline onto the jamb. Chisel a mortise in the jamb for the strike. Test the strike in the mortise and deepen or shim if necessary. Secure the strike in the jamb and test again. You’re done!

 

11. That’s it. With just an investment in a deadbolt and a little time, you’ve made your home a little safer, and more secure.

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